Taking liberties with the French sauce sabayon

Post & Courier  by Hanna Raskin    Jun 3 2015 12:01 am

Sabayon (sah-bah-YOHN)

What it means

Zabaglione, the Italian name for a whip of egg yolks, sugar and wine, has a fairly specific connotation: It’s the dessert custard that arrives after a meal of spaghetti and meatballs or eggplant parmesan, usually in a martini glass with fresh berries on top.

But the French interpretation of the longstanding sauce, close kin to hollandaise, is less restrictive. Often made with Champagne instead of sweet wine, sabayon is used to finish fish, scallops and asparagus, among other savories. “I use the word sabayon kind of loosely,” Seattle chef Adam Hoffman told StarChefs.com. Without regard to the rules of classical cuisine, Hoffman gussies up his sabayons with herb-infused oils, citrus and stocks.

Sabayon has appeared aboard the brunch benedict at The Lot, and under its French name on the dessert menu at Vincent Chicco’s. It’s also been known to pop up at restaurants with French sensibilities, such as FIG.

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